I went to St. Barths expecting glitter and glamour. What I found was a quieter, more honest side of the island. Before I left, I shared a short blog, Chasing Sunshine: A Short Escape to St. Barths. Here is the full story.

Getting there

Most tourists fly in on a small plane from St. Maarten, but the ferry is a popular alternative: about 45 minutes from Philipsburg, or an hour from Marigot. Both land in Gustavia, the heart of the island. Book early, especially from Philipsburg, as those boats sell out first.

My first impression came on board. Most passengers weren’t tourists but people coming to St. Barths for work. Many had just closed the summer season in Europe and were heading to open the winter season here. Others, like me, were visiting family or friends. Only here and there did I spot a tourist, mostly American.

The green rock

St. Barths is small, rocky and surprisingly green, with narrow, steep roads. If you rent a car, come as a confident driver: stopping and parking on those hills takes practice. Forget the Lamborghinis and Ferraris. These small and hilly roads belong to scooters and ordinary cars. For every villa with a pool, there are plenty of everyday homes.

What I loved most were the trees, many of them fruit trees, especially mangoes. Underneath, you may meet the island’s land tortoises, far from any beach. My brother-in-law often sees them eating fallen mangoes. Along the roadside, hermit crabs carry borrowed shells, left behind by sea snails. When one no longer fits, they simply move into a bigger one. Even the animals here know how to reuse.

The people who make it possible

We picture St. Barths as elegant people strolling past boutiques and yachts. Arriving before the season showed me what happens backstage. Roads were being repaired, houses restored, shops and restaurants getting ready. Two weeks later, Gustavia’s harbour would be full of yachts. Now it was quiet.

Instead of glamour, I saw the people who make it possible: workers arriving by ferry. About 10,700 people live on St. Barths, yet nearly 13,000 work here over a year, many of them seasonal. Housing is scarce, and many homes are bought or rented by companies and hotels for their staff. It shows how many people, together, keep this island running. My brother-in-law, whom I was visiting, told me he had never seen hotels repainted and restored so quickly for a new season. On an island known for perfection, every detail counts. It gave me new respect for everything behind a perfect holiday.

Four places I loved

1. Gustavia, the harbour town

Neat streets, a lovely waterfront and plenty of green. Its name tells its story: from 1784 to 1878 the island was Swedish, and the town was named after King Gustav III. There is a street with luxury brands, but there are also relaxed places to eat, from affordable to very expensive. Something for everyone.

2. St. Jean and the man on the rock

My favourite spot. In the middle of the bay sits Eden Rock, the island’s most famous hotel. In 1946, adventurous pilot Rémy de Haenen landed the first plane ever on St. Barths, in a field full of animals that later became the airport, now named after him. He built his home on the rock and began welcoming guests in the 1950s. All the glamour of St. Barths began with one man, a small plane and a house on a rock.

For a taste of Eden Rock without staying there, there’s Eden to Go near the airport, run by the hotel. A chic spot for pastries, coffee or a glass of champagne, to take away or enjoy on the spot.

One evening, we were treated to fireworks over the bay. Someone had booked the entire hotel during my stay, so I admired it from the beach, which is open to everyone. The fireworks for the guests of Eden Rock hotel was a great extra to view from the beach.

3. Grand Cul-de-Sac

The one bay that looked like a postcard: soft white sand, calm turquoise water sheltered by a reef, and a small bar for a cold drink. Most other beaches don’t have a bar for a drink or a bite.

On the beach, people were enjoying their day off and fishermen were carrying their catch of the day.

4. Quiet salt pond

Behind Saline beach lies a quiet salt pond. Salt was harvested here until 1972. Before electricity arrived in the 1960s, it was used to keep the island’s food preservable. Having been to Bonaire, I expected flamingos. There were none.

My St. Barths outfits

In St. Jean’s red-roofed Villa Créole, I didn’t fill a suitcase. I chose a few quality, timeless pieces I love.

A silk resort outfit, comfortable yet chic and feminine, beautiful as a whole and even better combined with other clothes. Chic white shorts that go with many tops. A classy white dress with a belt. Silver earrings with natural stones, and a necklace with a white shell.

Beautiful fabrics, timeless and eye-catching. Pieces I’ll wear for years.

My “less is more” tips

• Book your ferry early, especially from Philipsburg.
• Visit in early November for quiet roads and empty beaches, but bring water and a snack.
• Rent a small car or scooter, and take the hills slowly.
• Enjoy Eden Rock from the beach. The view is free.
• Buy one or two pieces you love instead of a bag full of things.

Even the chicest island has a quiet, hardworking heart. Have you been, or is it on your list? Tell me in the comments, and follow my travels on Instagram @chicenzo.